The Rolex Submariner 1680, particularly the coveted examples featuring the "Meters First" dial and housed in 18k yellow gold, represent the pinnacle of vintage Rolex collecting. These timepieces, steeped in history and possessing undeniable charisma, command significant prices in the collector market, with pristine examples reaching astonishing figures. The listing of a Red Submariner Date Meters First Mk 3 dial 1680, with a serial number circa 1970, for $32,499 plus shipping on Chrono24, serves as a perfect example of this high demand. This article will explore the allure of the Rolex 1680, focusing specifically on the gold "Meters First" variants and the factors driving their exceptional value.
The Rolex 1680: A Legacy of Undersea Exploration
The Rolex Submariner 1680, produced from approximately 1966 to 1979, marked a significant evolution in the Submariner line. It was the first Submariner to incorporate the date complication, a feature that proved immensely popular with divers and enthusiasts alike. This addition, situated at 3 o'clock, subtly altered the dial layout, leading to variations that collectors now zealously pursue.
The case itself, typically 40mm in stainless steel, offered robust water resistance, making it a truly reliable tool watch. However, the allure of the 1680 extended beyond its functionality. Its design, a harmonious blend of practicality and elegance, captured the spirit of the era, reflecting a time when dive watches were transitioning from purely utilitarian tools to coveted status symbols.
The Significance of the "Meters First" Dial
The dial variations on the Rolex 1680 are a key factor influencing its collectible value. Among the most sought-after are those featuring the "Meters First" configuration. Unlike later models that predominantly displayed "Feet First," these dials prioritize the metric measurement of depth, "METRES" appearing above "FEET." This subtle difference speaks volumes about the evolution of the watch's market and the shift in global preference for metric units.
The "Meters First" dials are particularly prized on the gold versions of the 1680. The combination of the prestigious yellow gold case with the historically significant dial creates a truly exceptional timepiece. The specific "Mk 3" dial mentioned in the Chrono24 listing further enhances its desirability. Mk 3 dials are characterized by specific font styles, marker shapes, and the overall aesthetic of the printing, often deemed more desirable than later iterations. These subtle differences, often invisible to the untrained eye, become crucial distinctions for discerning collectors.
The Allure of the Red Submariner Date
Further enhancing the value of the specific watch mentioned is the "Red" Submariner designation. This refers to the red text on the dial, particularly the "SUBMARINER" and "ROLEX" lettering. The vivid red accents against the black dial provide a striking contrast, adding to the watch's overall visual appeal. This color combination is highly sought after, as it represents a specific period in Rolex's production history.
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